Parts / Control Panels / Chassis Tie-In Fuse/Relay Panel

FRP-T2COR2

Chassis Tie-In Fuse/Relay Panel

Every conversion needs somewhere the 12V side comes together — pumps, fans, enables, the whole list of things that have to switch when the key turns. This is that place, fused and relayed and labeled, built around the circuits your car actually has.

$850 Made to order · ships in 1–2 weeks
FusingMini ATC
Layout40 fuse / 10 relay
Lead time1–2 weeks
Warranty90 days

Built in Oceanside, CA — by the person who answers your email
One price — $850 whatever you put on it
Warranty: 90 days from delivery
Shipping: UPS, $50 per order, insured for full value
International: by quote — email us

What it is

The 12V side is the half nobody plans for

Your BMS and controller decide what needs switching, but they cannot switch it. Most of their outputs are low current — a couple of hundred milliamps, enough to pull a relay coil, nowhere near enough to run a coolant pump or a radiator fan. This panel is the layer in between: the relays those drivers pull, the fuses on the circuits they close, and one labeled place where all of it lives instead of a nest of inline fuses zip-tied behind the dash.

Mini ATC fusing

Standard blade fuses you can buy at any parts store at 9pm, not something you have to order and wait a week for.

Relayed

Most BMS outputs are low current — a couple of hundred milliamps on an Orion, about an amp on a Vero. Enough to pull a relay coil or an economized contactor, and no more. Nothing on your car runs directly off one. The relays here are what turn that signal into a switched circuit that can actually carry a fan or a pump. Every relay is a Song Chuan ISO 280 micro at 35A, so the panel is not the limit on what you can switch.

Deutsch DTM connectors

Circuits land in DTM housings grouped by type, every wire marked with printed heat shrink. The mating halves ship with the panel, so your side is a crimp rather than a sourcing exercise.

Built to your list

The relay layout comes from your car and from what your BMS and controller can drive. The price does not move with it — an Orion 2 build and a Vero build cost the same.

One place

Everything on the 12V side lands here, so there is one panel to check rather than six inline fuses in six places.

Works with anything

AEM EV, Dynam Labs, Netgain, Curtis or a collection of controllers with no central VCU. The panel does not care.

Design checklist

Spec your panel

The price is the same whatever you put on it — this checklist is here so you know what the panel is doing and can plan the wiring that runs past it. Pick your controller and BMS, then work through the relays your car calls for. They are split by what drives them, and the tool checks the BMS side against the outputs you actually have.

Driven by the BMS

Driven by the motor controller

Relay driver source

Relay driver source

Relay driver source

On an Orion 2 or Thunderstruck MCU the negative contactor rides on the (Dis)Charge output, so it is only listed separately if (Dis)Charge is not selected.

Does your build run an air conditioning compressor off the HV pack?

BMS outputs used

0

Controller driven

0

Choose a BMS to see how many outputs you have to work with.

    Request a quote with this list

    How your panel gets prewired

    1. You send the checklist. Controller, BMS, and the relays your car calls for. That is the specification we build from.
    2. We lay out the panel. Relay positions and Mini ATC fuse values are assigned per circuit, sized to the load each one carries and grouped so related circuits land together.
    3. We prewire it. Every circuit is run and terminated into Deutsch DTM housings, grouped so alike inputs and outputs share a connector rather than being scattered across the panel. Each wire is labeled with printed heat shrink at the connector. The mating half of every connector we terminate ships with the panel, so you are not sourcing housings or hunting part numbers to land your side.
    4. Labeled and documented. Every circuit marked on the panel, with a printed schematic in the box matched to the list it was built from.
    5. You wire the car to it. Your side is the runs out to the car — the 80A feed onto the bus, grounds, and the circuits from the mating connectors to your pumps, fans, lights and enables. You crimp into housings that are already labeled and already grouped, against a printed schematic that matches your build.

    Relay notes and output counts are taken from manufacturer documentation. If your BMS or controller is configured differently from the defaults, tell us and we will build to what you are actually running.

    Specifications

    Spec sheet

    If something you need isn’t here, ask — it means we haven’t written it down yet, not that we don’t know it.

    Electrical

    System12V
    Bus input80A
    FusingMini ATC blade
    Fuse positions40
    Relay positions10
    BusDual bussed
    Circuits usedBuild specific
    RelaysSong Chuan ISO 280 micro, 35A
    Bus rating100A per bus bar, 200A max
    Wire size accepted12–22 AWG
    Main feed80A on the bus
    TerminalsMetri-Pack 280 Series, sealed

    Physical

    Enclosure94V-0 thermoplastic, silicone gasket
    Dimensions235 × 216 × 94mm
    Panel cut-out197.5 × 124.4mm
    Mounting4× #10-32 or M5, rear of panel
    Input studsM8 × 1.25
    IngressIP66 with cover and seal
    Temperature-40°C to 85°C
    LabelingEvery circuit marked

    Order & support

    Price$850, all configurations
    Lead time1–2 weeks
    Built inOceanside, CA
    ShippingUPS, $50 per order
    InternationalBy quote only
    Warranty90 days from delivery
    DocumentationPrinted schematic in the box

    Compatibility

    This is the integration path

    Our plug-and-play harnesses cover the EV-Controls T2-C to Tesla drive units. Everything else ties into the car here — not as a fallback, but because a panel built to your circuit list is the right answer when both ends aren’t a known pair.

    Controllers

    • AEM EV VCU275
    • Dynam Labs VCU+
    • Netgain X1
    • Curtis 1238 / 1239(e)
    • EV-Controls T2-C, with the drive unit harness
    • Controller collection, no central VCU

    Motor setups

    • Cascadia IM225 / IM375
    • Netgain Hyper9 / Hyper9HV
    • HPEVS AC-34, AC-50, AC-35, AC-51
    • Tesla S/X LDU and SDU

    Battery management

    • Orion 2
    • Thunderstruck MCU
    • Vero BMS V2
    • AEM EV BMSM

    Pairs with

    • HV Contactor Box
    • Coil control circuits
    • Precharge enable
    • HVIL loop

    Low voltage, real consequences

    This panel is 12V, but what it switches isn’t. Contactor coils, precharge enable and the HVIL loop all run through here, which means a fault on this side can leave a high-voltage system in a state you didn’t intend. Treat it as part of the safety chain, not as accessory wiring.

    A printed schematic ships with every panel, marked to the circuit list it was built from.

    Questions

    About this panel

    Does the price change with what I select?

    No. $850 covers the panel whatever you put on it — 40 fuse positions and 10 relays either way. The checklist above is not a pricing tool; it is there so you understand what the panel is doing and can plan the wiring that runs past it before anything is permanent.

    What do you need from me to build one?

    The checklist above, your controller and BMS, and your pack voltage. If anything about the car is unusual — a manual gearbox, a second battery location, lighting that is already LED — mention it, because those are the details that change how the panel is laid out rather than what goes on it.

    Do I need this if I’m running a T2-C?

    Not necessarily. A T2-C with Tesla drive units is covered by our plug-and-play harness. Where a panel still earns its place is everything around the drivetrain — pumps, fans, heater, charger enables — which the harness doesn’t touch.

    Can I add circuits later?

    On the fused side, yes — 40 positions is more than any conversion we have built uses, so there is room to add circuits without touching what is already there. The relays are the tighter side: with ten positions and the list above, most builds use all of them. If you know you want something later, say so now and we will lay the panel out with it in mind.

    Does it replace the contactor box?

    No. The contactor box handles the high-voltage side — main contactors, precharge, traction fusing. This panel handles the 12V side that controls and supports it. Most builds use both.

    How long until it ships?

    One to two weeks from the time your circuit list is confirmed. Every panel is built to order.

    Goes with

    Finish the system